Hackberry Springs Loop

There are a lot of fun hikes off the First Water Trailhead, but the Hackberry Springs Loop has many, really great features: mountain views, Indian ruins, a cholla forest, a natural water spring, creek walking, shade trees, a slot canyon, an old windmill, and an abandoned cattle ranch. Truly, you can't go wrong with any of the First Water Trailhead hikes with their rolling hills and creeks, but Hackberry Springs is really special. I almost don't want to share information about this hike so it doesn't get spoiled, but my hope is that if more people become enamored with the open spaces in Arizona, then more people will also be committed to preserving them, and we can avoid more scenarios like last year's mass closures of Arizona state parks. Preserve Arizona Outdoors!

To get to the First Water Trailhead from metro Phoenix, take US 60 east to the Idaho Road exit and head north. At the intersection of Idaho Road and Highway 88, turn right and head northeast on Highway 88 towards Canyon Lake. The First Water Trailhead is a right turn at Forest Road 78 after milepost 201. After you pass Lost Dutchman State Park, you will want to stop taking in the view to the right of the mountain, and start looking to the right of the road for the First Water Trailhead turn-off. After turning off, the actual trailhead is about 2 miles down the dirt road which is passable at most times of the year without a 4-wheel drive vehicle.

You will start off hiking on the First Water Trail. At the first intersection, turn left and head north on the Second Water Trail. When you come to the sign for the Black Mesa trail, look behind it, and you will see the remains of an old Indian ruin. We looked around for a bit, and it seems clear that this was some sort of stone house with grinding holes and little red pottery shards on the ground around it. At this intersection, you have some choices, and this can get confusing. You DON'T want to take the Black Mesa Trail. You want to bear to the left and head west on a trail that goes through a flat area of thick cholla with dark red soil. This area is called Garden Valley. Be on alert for cactus needles in the trail. From here, you will start to climb uphill until you reach a saddle where the trail drops down and around a canyon. Be careful, since this part of the trail has a lot of loose rock and can be slippery. After you have come down through the canyon, you will be faced with another big decision where the trail clearly splits off in two directions when faced with the big hill in front of you that is Hackberry Mesa. If you follow this trail to the left, you will see First Water Ranch in the distance. You DO NOT want to go to the left at this time since you will miss Hackberry Springs. Instead, bear right at the little rock cairn and head downhill and then gently to the left following the trail. When you get to a thick area of Mesquite trees and grass, then you'll want to just keep bearing left on the trail. Here's a photo of this area:

From here, you will start to see a creek on your right, and if you have come after a recent rainfall, there could be quite a bit of water in there. After you have crossed the creek once at a narrow portion with boulders around it, you walk a little further, and you will be faced with a wide, gravelly creek-bed and a sheer canyon wall in front of you. If you look straight at the rock wall in front of you, there is a small path that leads up to Hackberry Springs. You are looking for a small pipe coming out of the rock face with water gently trickling out of it. This is the spring. Here's what you're looking for:

The spring makes a nice place to rest and have some lunch since it is quite a bit cooler down here. To get back to the trail, follow the creek southwest again, and the trail will present itself on the left out of the creek-bed. From here, you are boulder hopping again through the creek. Just keep following the creek and the narrow canyon, and you will get out of here. My kids liked this part of the trail the best. Check out this next photo, and yes, the trail DOES go between those big boulders:

You will continue to follow this creek all the way to First Water Ranch and it makes for some beautiful hiking:

         

Today, First Water Ranch mostly looks like an old horse corral with an old windmill next to it, but in the early 1900s, it was one of three nearby ranches owned by cattleman William "Tex" Barkley. This spot also makes a nice spot to rest under the shade canopy. On the southwest edge of the ranch property, behind the water tower, there is a steep dirt road going uphill that will connect you with the horse parking lot along Forest Road 78 (you passed it when you drove in.) Take this road up to the top and turn around to look back at a great view of Four Peaks with the ranch down below. Back at Forest Road 78, turn left and follow this road back to the trailhead parking lot.

Length: 5.2 miles
Elevation gain: 700 feet
Time it took us: 4 hours with a lunch stop at the spring
Dogs okay: Yes
Fees: No Tonto Pass required at this trailhead (at this time)